Between heritage and innovation: highlights from the great watchmaking Houses
The 2025 edition of Watches and Wonders once again transformed Geneva into the world capital of watchmaking for one week. This event, which has become a must for the sector, brought together 60 exceptional Houses to present their latest creations, technical innovations and iconic reinterpretations. This year, trends ranged from a return to basics to the exploration of new materials, bold colours and sporty complications. Focus on the Michaud partner brands that made their mark at the event.
CHANEL - A reinvented J12, neither white nor black, and blush
The House of CHANEL has once again demonstrated its unique talent for combining timeless sophistication and avant-gardism. While CHANEL's watchmaking universe is already well established thanks to its iconic creations such as the J12 and the Première, the 2025 edition will be marked by a powerful creative gesture: the introduction of a J12 in matt blue ceramic. Available in several diameters (33 mm and 38 mm), this new J12 retains the DNA that has made the model such a success since its creation in 2000: a minimalist design, pure lines, a notched bezel and an integrated bracelet in high-resistance ceramic, and takes a new step forward by introducing blue as its aesthetic signature, between modernity and sobriety. Pieces from this exceptional collection are now available from Michaud.
Alongside this flagship timepiece, CHANEL has also enriched its watchmaking collections with its Blush collection, featuring trompe-l'œil timepieces in light, powdery shades evocative of its cosmetics universe.
CHOPARD - Between elegance and ethics
Chopard has continued its commitment to sustainable luxury by showcasing creations combining fine watchmaking and ethical gold, notably in the L'Heure Du Diamant line, which features a new 26 mm gold jewellery watch set with diamonds and with a mother-of-pearl or malachite dial, combined with a textured gold bracelet.
Also new is the Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum, an ultra-thin watch in platinum with a blue ‘Shades of Ice’ dial inspired by alpine glaciers, and powered by the L.U.C Calibre 96.42-L movement with its platinum micro-rotor and 65-hour power reserve.
A blend of refined complications and jewellery-making expertise, the brand is proving that technical innovation and environmental responsibility can coexist in harmony.
HUBLOT - 20 years of Big Bang: a tribute between past, present and future
HUBLOT made its mark by celebrating the 20th anniversary of its most emblematic collection: the Big Bang. Far from being content with a simple commemorative re-edition, the Nyon-based manufacturer presented five limited-edition creations in a spectacularly designed space with an avant-garde identity: the Big Bang 20th Anniversary watches, veritable manifestos of style and innovation.
-Big Bang Original 20th Anniversary Ceramic: A faithful revisiting of the inaugural model, in polished and satin-finished black ceramic, but equipped with HUBLOT's latest technical advances. It features the sleek lines, visible screws on the bezel and resolutely sporty spirit that have made the model such a legend.
-Big Bang Original 20th Anniversary Titanium: A light and ultra-resistant version in brushed and polished titanium, reaffirming the brand's attachment to high-tech materials. It perfectly embodies the ‘Art of Fusion’ philosophy dear to HUBLOT.
-Big Bang Original 20th Anniversary Gold: A model in King Gold, the gold alloy developed by HUBLOT for a warmer colour and greater resistance. This model is a nod to the assertive luxury and measured extravagance of the 2000s.
-Big Bang Unico 20th Anniversary Integrated Ceramic Blue: A contemporary variation in integrated blue ceramic, recalling the brand's recent innovations in bracelets fused to the case. The skeleton dial highlights the Manufacture HUB1280 calibre with flyback chronograph.
- Big Bang Unico 20th Anniversary Sapphire: A spectacular piece in transparent sapphire, demonstrating HUBLOT's technical mastery of the most complex materials to work with. The absolute transparency highlights the Manufacture movement and mechanical gears.
The pieces in this anniversary collection will be presented on 15 and 16 April in the Michaud boutique in Neuchâtel.
NORQAIN - A young House making its mark with style
Present at Watches and Wonders this year, the independent Maison NORQAIN made its mark with an immersive stand inspired by ski resorts. Its Wild ONE Skeleton 39mm collection in particular confirmed its sport-chic positioning with lightweight models featuring bold, colourful skeleton designs - perfect for a dynamic, contemporary lifestyle. These timepieces demonstrate the brand's commitment to offering innovative and customisable watches, while creating unique experiences for watch enthusiasts.
You will soon be able to discover the pieces in this colourful collection at Michaud.
TAG HEUER - Automotive in the DNA
In keeping with its history of close links with motorsport, TAG Heuer has presented a number of new timepieces to enhance its Formula 1 collection, including:
- the new Formula 1 Solargraph, revisited versions of its iconic model from the 1980s. Featuring innovative solar technology, these watches retain the brand's iconic racing aesthetic while taking a more responsible and technical approach.
- Formula 1 Chronographs, designed for adrenalin-seekers. These bold watches embody speed, endurance and peak performance with 44mm dials, titanium components and an aesthetic incorporating coloured elements largely inspired by motor racing. Pieces from this exceptional collection will soon be available from Michaud.
But the most eagerly awaited timepiece was certainly the emblematic Carrera Day-Date, an icon of ambition and elegance reinvented here with a dial designed in three dimensions and offered in six variations. Still driven by high-performance engineering, this model has consolidated its status among motor racing enthusiasts.
With these new models, the brand's link with the world of racing is more alive than ever.
TUDOR - A sporting heritage revisited
TUDOR has confirmed its status as a leading watch brand by combining heritage, technical sophistication and a contemporary spirit. True to its DNA as a modern-day explorer, TUDOR unveiled a number of new models that met with great enthusiasm among enthusiasts.
This year saw the launch of an all-new Black Bay 58 with a burgundy dial and bezel, as well as a Black Bay Pro featuring an opaline dial offering enhanced legibility with distinctive aesthetic touches. The Black Bay Chrono in steel, meanwhile, offers subtle updates with enhanced five-mesh bracelet options.
In terms of sporting complications, a 43 mm Black Bay, certified Master Chronometer and available with Tudor blue or satin-finish silver dials, and a Pelagos water-resistant to 1,000 metres and equipped with a helium valve, have been launched.
With these new models, TUDOR continues its ascent, affirming a watchmaking vision that blends tradition and innovation, technicality and aestheticism.
ZENITH - Blue as a watchmaking manifesto
To celebrate its 160th anniversary, Zenith has made its mark with a collection of bold, colourful timepieces in an intense, electric blue that breathes new energy into its emblematic creations.
Among the major new products unveiled, three flagship models caught the attention of enthusiasts and collectors alike:
-The Pilot Big Date Flyback Blue Edition: A symbol of the brand's aviator watches, the Pilot Big Date Flyback is dressed in a striking uniform blue. The textured dial, blue ceramic case and matching bracelet give this timepiece a sporty yet ultra-contemporary look. The flyback function - enabling the chronograph to be instantly reset and restarted - is reminiscent of the brand's technical DNA.
-Defy Skyline Chronograph Blue Edition: In a more architectural and futuristic spirit, the Defy Skyline Chronograph also adopts this powerful blue. Its faceted ceramic case, counters integrated into the dial and high-frequency El Primero movement make it a model designed for performance and urban elegance.
-The Chronomaster Sport Blue Edition: Finally, the Chronomaster Sport, famous for its chronometric performance and balanced design, has also been given this vibrant blue hue. The contrast between the blue of the dial and the silver counters provides optimum legibility, in keeping with the demands of precision enthusiasts.
More than just a trend, this ‘Zenith Blue’ symbolises an assertive vision of watchmaking in the 21stᵉ century: free, elegant, and forward-looking.
In conclusion,
Watches and Wonders 2025 confirmed that tomorrow's watchmaking is built on a balance between heritage, expertise and innovation. Each brand showcased its own unique identity, while meeting the expectations of watch enthusiasts looking for unique, technical and emotional timepieces.